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It is so easy to jump into a Kodak moment.  Picture this; the engine does nothing (no noise) when you turn the key.  So, they assume that the no start must be a battery and replaced the battery.  The new battery didn't work either, it still didn't start.  Therefore it must be the starter.  This type of diagnosis is call popular-process-of-elimination and is usually never the least expensive.  What we found was a broken wire, a simple fix.  But today's more modern vehicles have really changed and it is no longer the simple turn the key and connects the battery to the starter.  Now we have modules that must approve each step.  The body module sees a command from the ignition switch to crank the engine.  Now it waits for the anti-theft module to approve the key being used is the correct key.  Then the body module tells the power train control module that everything (there are other inputs at stake) has been approved and it can engage the starter.

Quick test, turn on your headlights or interior lights, then crank the engine while watching your lights.  If they don’t do anything (dim or go out) then your starter never got the message.  Or if you hear a click then the starter could be bad (corroded contacts possible)  and is not engaging.  If the lights dim a lot or go out then there is a battery supply issue (weak battery, poor connection, or excessive demand).  In any case always get a professional involved.

Starter wire.jpg

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